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人物專欄 攀岩,登山,雪地及戶外探險人物專欄

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舊 2015-05-19, 07:26   #1
kuanchung
中度攀言者
 
註冊日期: 2012-04
文章: 112
kuanchung 是普普通通的會員
Dean potter繼續飛...

http://www.climbing.com/news/dean-po...-in-base-jump/

http://www.outsideonline.com/1981591...mping-accident

攀岩我看的多.爬的多.很多爬不上!!...所以看到dean potter獨攀.感覺是還好.

後來看他玩wingsuit.感覺很酷.也還好.

最後.他玩高空走繩(無確保走繩)...我眼睛一亮.好man.好樣的

很可惜..但..活的精彩!!(天堂繼續飛.繼續爬.....)
kuanchung 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2015-05-20, 00:24   #2
大濟
攀言癌症患者
 
註冊日期: 1999-11
住址: Madison
文章: 689
大濟 是普普通通的會員
Dean Potter 是近代影響美國攀岩界最深也最傑出的人物,他的意外去世對美國攀岩界影響很大,從很多的網路討論看出,很多人到現在為止還在震驚和痛心之中(包括我在內),很多人下意識裡拒絕相信這個消息。

我計劃把 Dean Potter 的資料粗略整理一下 po 上,不過要等一陣子,等心情平復以後。

Dean Potter 特立獨行,但不矯情,誠實而率性,但生活儉樸,是一個真正的 “人”,如果這個世間多一些這樣的人,我會以身為人而驕傲。

今天 Climbing 網路版刊出 Dean Potter 的一些影片:

http://www.climbing.com/news/dean-po...limbing-films/

裡面有 Dean Potter 說的幾句話:

"With the idea of death being so close, I live life as well as I can. To be as good a person as I can. To treat the people around me with as much love as I can pour into them."

純真、赤子之言!卻讓人特別感傷。
大濟 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2015-05-20, 06:01   #3
littlepo
輕度攀言者
 
註冊日期: 2009-05
文章: 66
littlepo 是普普通通的會員
非常遺憾。非常震驚。我也是屬於那個不想相信的人。

在臉書上我分享:


Dean Potter走了。已經有幾天了,可是我還是不想相信。這個人做的事情,給我很大的啟發。

他可說是走在前端的運動者,藝術家。因為他做的事情非常超越眾人的想像,而說話也是心裡有什麼就說什麼,不能完整呈現他的媒體,也讓這個人充滿爭議。

我記得在某個攀登雜誌看過他的一張照片,那張照片中他笑的是那麼由衷,如果不是這個人很熱愛他從事的事情,不會有這樣的笑容。我想,真實的他應該是和媒體所呈現的形象,差距很大的。

後來有機會聽到一些曾經和他有第一手接觸的人的言論,說是這個人就是很純粹的活著,很專注的把自己熱愛的藝術琢磨到更高的層次。

有一部他的影片,我看了很多次,是講free base solo Eiger的影片。片中因為等不到天氣,他最後長段倒攀回到地面(後來他有再去嘗試,成功登頂)。那部片給我很大的啟發。

後來看Enduring Patagonia,裡頭有一段話可以和我得到的啟發共鳴。大意是說攀登者必須想要,真的很想要,因為如果不想要,你很難成功。但是也要很清楚的知道什麼時候該撤,而且要撤的果斷毫不遺憾,這樣你才可以全身而退。

頂尖的運動員,琢磨人的能力和那一條線的距離,非常縝密的不超越那條線,非常努力極接近那條線,讓受到啟發的人明白許多事情是可能的,也努力的尋求自己的挑戰,得到自己的進步。

也許這次他跨過了那條線,也許是意外。我不知道。

我只希望他在另一個世界,也能照自己想過的方式過著。

RIP. Dean Potter。
__________________
個人攀岩部落格:
http://www.chickfromtaiwan.com
littlepo 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2015-05-22, 04:03   #4
大濟
攀言癌症患者
 
註冊日期: 1999-11
住址: Madison
文章: 689
大濟 是普普通通的會員
紐約時報:

http://mobile.nytimes.com/2015/05/18...?_r=1&referrer

CNN (Alex Honnold 接受訪問談及 Dean Potter 的去世):

http://www.cnn.com/videos/us/2015/05...ite-deaths.cnn

還有很多,就不列舉了。

----------------------

Dean Potter 部落格:

http://deanspotter.com/

首頁的一句話:“When I do let go, this whole new world opens up.”

----------------------

Dean Potter 的 solo-with-rope (背著繩子裝備獨攀,必要時使用裝備,但大部份為 free solo)

(年代不詳)"The Nose", El Capitan

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xh0...yosemite_sport

1998:"Regular Northwest Face", Half Dome (VI 5.12, 4小時16 分鐘)
1999:"Regular Northwest Face", Half Dome + "The Nose", El Capitan (23小時),有史以來第一次有人這樣作。
2002:"Regular Route", Half Dome + "Freerider", El Capitan (23小時,23分鐘)

------------------------

Dean Potter 的 free-solo ascent

1997: "The Crippler" (5.13+); "King Tut" (5.13a)
1998: "Silent Line" (5.13R)
1999:"The Casual Route", Long’s Peak (IV, 5.10a)
2000:"Astroman" (V, 5.11b); "The North Face", Rostrum (IV, 5.11c); "Blind Faith", Rostrum (5.11d - the first free-solo ascent)

(年代不詳)"Easy Rider", El Capitan

("Easy Rider" 不算一條完整路線。 Dean Potter 先下攀 "Lurking Fear" 最上面斜板部份,這裡最難 5.10,下攀到達 Thanksgiving ledge,以下是那個 ledge 的一些片段(非 Dean 爬的那一次):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTJ4h3_ec1A,

再由這個 ledge 接上著名路線 "Freerider",爬 "Freerider" 最後的5個 pitch,這裡最難是 5.11d。 "Easy Rider" 雖不是一條完整路線,但是第一次有人 free-solo El Capian 的某個部份。下面是 Dean Potter free-solo "Easy Rider" 最後5個 pitch - 也就是 "Freerider" 最後5個 pitch - 的片段)

http://channel.nationalgeographic.co...ee-solo-climb/

2006:"Heaven" (5.12d/13a - the first free-solo ascent)

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xh0...yosemite_sport

2006:"Separate Reality" (5.11d)

(國內同好可能對這條路線不熟,但對老一代攀岩者,這條是超級經典,由 Ron Kauk 在 1978 首攀。記得那時唸大學,看到這條路線照片以後,就與攀岩結了不解之緣。另一位攀岩界的傳奇 Wolfgang Güllich 在 1986 第一次 free solo 這條路線,而後 Heinz Zak 在 2005 第二次 free solo, Dean Potter 是第三人。 這條路線取名自一位人類學家,Carlos Castaneda,的名著:A Separate Reality,其中有一段話:

“Only the idea of death makes a man sufficiently detached so he can't deny himself anything. A man of that sort, however, does not crave, for he has acquired a silent lust for life and for all things of life. He knows his death is stalking him and won't give him time to cling to anything, so he tries, without craving, all of everything.”

當我看 Dean 獨攀 “Separate Reality” 時,上述的 “for he has acquired a silent lust for life” 這句話就在腦海裡不斷的浮現。

這是影帶:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFa1qpldmiM

---------------------------

Patagonia:

2002, Dean Potter solo "Supercanaleta" ("Super Couloir") - 有史以來第一人 solo Fitz Roy;同年他也 solo 了 Fitz Roy 另兩條經典路線:"Compressor Route" 以及 "California Roulette"。

-------------------------

2006 年是 Dean Potter 生涯轉換的一年,那一年,他 solo 了猶它州拱門國家公園的圖騰 Delicate Arch,此舉引起美國攀岩界的憤怒和討噠:

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news...-delicate-arch

因為這件事情, Dean Potter 失去了 Patagonia 的贊助,也因為這件事情,不久與妻子 Steph Davis 離異(Steph Davis 也是一位非常傑出的攀岩者

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steph_Davis

自此以後, Dean Potter 沈寂了一陣子,比較少攀岩,比較專注於高空走繩(highlining)和 BASE jumping,再復出攀岩時,就開創了 Freebase(背降落傘 free solo) :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqEkFBNiP3c

-----------------------------

2006 以後的 Dean,自己有一段剖白收錄在他的部落格(共有5集):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsagruTOXA8

------------------------------

Supertopo 一位 Dean Potter 朋友留言說,Dean 的生活理念受到一些東方文化影響,Dean 常提及宮本武蔵所著 “五輪書” 的幾句話:

“Do not sleep under a roof. Carry no money or food. Go alone to places frightening to the common brand of men. Become a criminal of purpose. Be put in jail, and extricate yourself by your own wisdom.” (Miyamoto Musashi -宮本武蔵,The Complete Book of Five Rings - 五輪書)

Dean 知道,宮本武蔵不只是一位武士,也是一位修行者和藝術家。

Dean Potter 的母親是瑜珈老師,所以 Dean 自小就熟悉瑜珈,他寫的文章中,不只一次用瑜珈術語描述攀岩或 BASE jump。

----------------------------

以下摘錄 Supertopo 論壇裡岩友對 Dean Potter 的悼念和哀思:

"Today a great chief has passed
The ravens have welcomed him
Into their circle
As Yosemite’s tears
Run in long beautiful waterfalls
Down the face of Half Dome"


"Fly High Dean. Enjoy the Greatest Epic of All."

"These guys were living more in one day then most people live in a lifetime. Guys like Dean and Graham, I'm thinking they didn't really die, but just got promoted to the next level. Salute!"

“I knew who Dean Potter was, but did not know him; we had never met.
Last September I was out in El Cap Meadow and I saw Dean pull up. He walked out into the meadow to watch some friends up on the Captain, then he walked out further to where I was.
"Hi Dean", I said, introducing myself. He was pleasant and so much quieter than I expected. And we talked for maybe 5 minutes. Not about climbing or jumping; just talked...about stoke, about feeling the sun, listening to the wind blowing through the trees, and recharging our souls.
Suddenly he stood. "Fly free", he said. He got into his van and drove away.
I still do not know Dean Potter. I would never claim that we were "friends". I will always be inspired by his accomplishments. But when I remember Dean, it will always be for those few minutes in the meadow, and a brief conversation about who we are as humans . . . Fly free, Dean. May you dance on the wind forever.”

關於 Dean 不受贊助廠商羈絆:

“In the world of corporate-sponsored athletes, he was refreshingly outside the box, pursuing his vision regardless of what sponsors or the general public thought. He did not care. The level of athleticism and mental toughness he possessed is impossible for somebody like me to comprehend. I sometimes thought maybe he would be the exception and would not die because he was so incredibly talented. But one thing of which I'm certain is that Dean would tell you the life he lived was worth an early death.”

一位岩友提到 Dean Potter 的玩命風格,而且不以為然:

“I always felt there was a desperate sadness to Potter's endless quest for something genuine and meaningful, which he never quite found. I do not share the opinion that his pursuits were akin to my own in the climbing world, because his choices clearly put him into a realm that deserves the label of "barnstormer" or "daredevil." The entire path for more than 40 years for me was about balancing risk with pushing personal standards. When you decide to join the small club of flyers whose challenge essentially boils down to shaving gaps ever closer, I think you're really a gambler at heart, convincing yourself with survival tales, but really rolling the dice compared to most climbers who actually contain risks, unless you free solo or visit Everest annually. Crude and unsophisticated wingsuits do not allow for the margins Potter and friends played with regularly, and when the best of your kind suffer the greatest attrition rate, i.e. your skill rises along with your likelihood of dying, you may need to pause and reconsider exactly what really drives you, and whether there is truly any distinction from it and other fatal addictions.
This could not possibly have taken anyone by surprise.”

有人回應,對這樣的批評反而不以為然:

“I, as I am sure most, have been absorbing this terrible news. Am I surprised? Well...kind of.
I never knew Dean in person...but I have been an avid climber for 37 years and he has and will inspire me for eternity. Dean was COSMIC. He not only had an astounding skill-set that blew the world away, but he was DEEP. He got things few people ever get. He was centered in time and space. He had experiences in his life that we can all envy. He was THE MAN.
I'm also shocked at some negative comments that have appeared . . . As many others have posted, talk about an astounding life led well and to the fullest! So many people just don't get that...like a life well led is to live as long as possible getting fat and useless watching TV... So I'm not sad for Dean. Dean lived the very best life a human being can possibly live, I bow down to him for that, and he died well . . . RIP Dean. RIGHT ON DUDE!”

----------------------------

我是凡夫俗子、普通到不行的攀岩者,所以誠如前面岩友留言,除了深沈的哀思,我無法了解 Dean,更不配有任何的主觀評價,他的世界以及境界我只能想像但不能體會。

但在回溯他的一生時,看他自己收錄的剖白影帶,看他 solo "Separate Reality",我想到前面所引 A Separate Reality 那本書的一句話 “for he has acquired a silent lust for life”。Lust for Life 是 Irving Stone 所著 “梵谷傳” 的英文書名,由那裡我想到 Don McLean 為梵谷所作的歌 Starry Starry Night

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVprz0nm0Y4

裡面的歌詞:

“This world was never meant for one
As beautiful as you . . .
Now I think I know
What you tried to say to me
And how you suffered for your sanity
And how you tried to set them free
They would not listen, they're not listening still
Perhaps they never will”

雖然我也是 “They” 之中的一個,但僅此遙寄我的哀思。請安息,一位傑傲的攀岩者,一個單純的人,一顆善良的心,一縷美麗的靈魂,Dean Potter。

此文章於 2015-05-22 23:05 被 大濟 編輯.
大濟 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2015-05-22, 09:48   #5
kuanchung
中度攀言者
 
註冊日期: 2012-04
文章: 112
kuanchung 是普普通通的會員
謝謝小po.大濟...更加了解他..感傷!!一路好走!
kuanchung 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
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