[A-YUNG]

作者: ArcticNomad

看起來2004之前有獲得 Sharp edge certificate的繩子品牌 它的認證只能用到2005年底 因為sharp edge 實驗結果一直無法重覆獲得相同結果

節錄自http://http://www.snewsnet.com/site/SO05_uiaaTest.html

By Clyde Soles

For the complete story, see GearTrends® Summer Outdoor 2005, p. 66, "Climbing a New Line"

With the introduction, and then withdrawal only a year later, of the UIAA Sharp Edge certification, climbers are now more confused than ever. The test was officially cancelled July 1, 2004 after the labs proved tests were too inconsistent to arrive even at a simple pass/fail rating. However, ropes that were certified sharp-edge resistant can continue to make this claim until the end of 2005.

In reality, the sharp edge standard had more problems than reproducibility. The test was originally developed for marketing the Edelweiss Stratos, the first cut-resistant ropes. The company simply replaced the simulated carabiner at the top of the test tower in the standard UIAA drop with a 90-degree edge. This was never perceived by other rope manufacturers to be a good indicator of how a rope survives in the real world, one where ropes are more likely to pendulum across an edge rather than get cut through.

Representatives from several companies told GearTrends® they do expect to see a new UIAA edge test “someday.” But it’s likely many years off and will be significantly different in nature. Until then, climbers will have to rely on the number of falls held and the sheath thickness to get an idea of cut resistance.

好幾年前西班牙的繩子品牌ROCA 也獲得UIAA sharp edge certificate 但現在都拿掉了

我覺得這個訊息很有趣，測試結果無法持續穩定，因此，UIAA乾脆就不給認證了。原本的認證要五次不斷才能通過，去年我在法國「老露營家」賣場看到好幾款都還是有UIAA falls, 便宜一點有通過七八次不斷的，貴一點的有達到十六次。但說實在的我沒有很仔細看它的描述內容，一般大致都是一小表格呈現，照這麼說，(UIAA說：2005年以後就不能再宣稱有UIAA falls)，我倒懷疑我看到的說明是不是真的 UIAA falls，又或者他們的繩子都賣超過五年了！！

不過，覺得有得參考總比沒有好，ROCA都沒有認證，那習慣UIAA falls的消費者，想必會無所適從。也因此Edelweiss會自已另起一個相仿的測試方式，他們立場也就不難想像了，說不定我看到的是Edelweiss自已的測試標準。