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on rope一書的原文如下
Bowline
it has a high efficiency rating,but has been known to work loose during repeated loading, especially with softer ropes.
The end of rope should be oriented on inside of major loop, not on out side.
On the outside of the loop ,the end is vulnerable to snagging. snagging may cause capsizing of knot , resulting in a slip knot.
簡單來講就是稱人結在重覆受力下容易鬆開。
如大濟大哥的解釋一樣，繩尾留在外側較容易因為磨蹭到外物(如岩壁或裝備)而鬆開變成滑結。
但不論繩尾在內側或在外側，1985年實際測試11mm繩子顯示兩種的數據都一樣
所以嚴格來講若是結尾的繩結打得夠夠牢(用stopper knot)，並緊貼近原本的稱人結，那使用上就沒有問題了。
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回deacon
一般稱為stopper knot(有些中文書稱它為"止索結")
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