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舊 2012-09-23, 11:07   #4
A-YUNG
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註冊日期: 2003-11
文章: 305
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A-YUNG 是普普通通的會員
我這裡有一份是1998美國教練寫給我們的訓練講義,我自作主張,將它翻譯出來,希望有企圖心的朋友,可運用得到,兩者可以比較看看。

http://www.wretch.cc/blog/Climb2fun/9996065

這訓練課程(training program)主要設計用來訓練選手,預期在亞洲盃時,能達到最佳狀況。在前五週,我們的目標是在整個訓練完成後,增加每個人的爆發力。一開始集中訓練(power-endurance)爆發耐力,然後越來越接近比賽時,逐漸訓練更長的爆發耐力路線。因為比賽要求更嚴格的體能,還有選手必須強化相關的攀登技巧和做好該有的準備,以期望比賽時有在更好的表現。這些準備包含比賽的戰術、加強「即攀」能力(on-sight )(註一)、攀登技巧、運動傷害預防與治療、心理的訓練、營養和休息。這個課程將會幫助你們了解自己的弱點和強項,進而改善弱點,且再增強擅長的部份。(這段是直接修改Mike的女朋友Amy,一位學過中文的美國女孩,不太成熟的中文,因此,和Mike的原文,段落、原意都有些差別)

訓練「必備」:
除了一般的裝備外(岩鞋、粉袋等),更重要的是,選手必須要貫徹執行整個訓練過程,並且按時照表操課。

第一階段:肌力訓練(power training)
就如前面提過的,訓練前五週,將著重在肌力訓練。肌力訓練中,休息和恢復期是很重要的課題。選手需要訓練的包含有指力訓練(finger strength,可進行抱石訓練和指力板訓練),在雙週循環訓練中,每週最多二至三次安排重量訓練。但在加入對攀岩者很重要的有氧訓練安排後,整個交叉訓練將變得更長。「輔助性」的交叉訓練包括游泳(可能是最好的)、跑步、騎單車、打藍球(Mike說:是我個人的最愛)或爬簡單的路線( easy climbing)。不管你選擇哪一種交叉訓練項目,重點在於你必須持續運動至少二十分鐘以上。任何比二十分鐘還短的運動,就不算是有氧運動了。另外,作伸展操、加強技巧和注重營養等,也是這個階段我們強調的項目。

第二階段:肌力和爆發耐力訓練(power-endurance)(註二)
在肌力訓練階段的最後一週,選手應該進而轉換較長的路線訓練設計,為「爆發耐力」訓練階段,作先前的過渡準備。這個過渡期的轉換,將在十一月的最後幾個星期完成。這階段將是正式開始朝著比賽的準備訓練,這些準備包含,技巧訓練、「以長系列動作的路線設計,來增進選手的爆發耐力」、「即攀」訓練、戰術攀登建議。此階段強調的是保留第一階段訓練所獲得的肌力、增進柔軟度以及改善攀登技巧。

第三階段:耐力和肌力 (交互訓練)
最後階段的訓練,將在十一月底開始,然後一直到比賽。這階段將安排較長的「爆發耐力」訓練之路線設計,來模擬選手在亞洲盃可能遇到的路線。這階段強調的重點,將著重在比賽型的訓練,稱為「阻抗訓練」(Resistance training)(註三)。 這一開始是由一些法國的比賽選手發展出來的,進而被全世界專業的比賽選手所廣泛採用。這個階段的焦點,同樣將專注在具體的攀登技巧,強化選手在比賽環境壓力下的攀登表現。攀爬速度、休息、攀爬效率,而攀爬時的「專注」將是這個階段的優勢要素。

結語:
請你們記得,攀岩是很個人的 (very personal)(攀岩講究專注、內化的自我感受與對話)(註四),我正好在台灣,所以我可以幫你們,但我沒有足夠的時間,針對所有人做特別的個別分析,並告訴你們個別能力、需要、訓練時間表。我們很難做到,完全告訴你確實的訓練數據(例如,你該舉多重的鐵片,你該休息多長的時間等等),我想你們得各自「自我分析」你自己的特有需求,其中最重要的是依照我的「課程表」安排該有的休息,以避免運動傷害和過多的訓練。我希望在訓練的過程中,你們能有新的體認,進而看到你們大幅的進步。我會盡最大的努力,也希望我們彼此教學相長、相互學習,一起進步。

1.維持健康
a.維他命C :每天至少攝取500mg,如果你關節或韌帶受傷,至少攝取兩倍的劑量。
b.維他命E: 照一般標準攝取(約200mg,如果允許的情況。但不如維他命C那麼重要)。
c.蛋白質:在訓練日和恢復期攝取(recovery days)。
d.運動傷害:當受傷時,每日至少兩次冰敷,每次十五至二十分鐘。同時在短期每日服用 ibuprofen(止痛藥)1200-2000mg ,持續三天,然後起碼一個禮拜不要爬,將可大幅降低發炎和腫脹。

2.基本訓練方法
a.柔軟度訓練:包含自主性(註五)和靜態的伸展操。
b.交叉訓練:(cross training):選擇自己的有氧運動,每週二至三次。
c.爬簡單路線:(easy climbing):爬自己程度以下難度的路線,把動作爬得很好,只要維持攀登動作技巧。
d.攀登技巧:專注在踩點、腳部動作的精確性(footwork precision),動態動作練習,身體的適當位置(body positioning),以及休息的策略,進而應用於即場攀登練習(on-sight climbing)和實際比賽。

3.肌力訓練(power training)
a.抱石:爬一至五個動作的路線。
b.重量訓練:兩星期的週期訓練,焦點放在最大的力量,採較大的重量,較少的反覆動作。
c.指力板訓練:焦點放在訓練強度夠的吊掛和引體,且強調單手(單臂)的訓練。

4.爆發耐力訓練
a.抱石訓練:設計較長的路線,以增進選手完成一系列較長路線的困難動作。
b.整合「阻抗訓練」進一步加強選手的能力,以達到其極限,而且持續維持較長的時間。

訓練指示
1.伸展操
在進行攀岩訓練和重量訓練前後,應適度的做伸展操。伸展操應包含收縮肌肉、活動關節和輕度的伸展。另外,同時建議在訓練前,做些散步或跑步,以增進血液循環。為增加柔軟度,每星期至少做兩次,完全的伸展開來。但不要超過四次,這取決於你的課程安排和你個人的目標。在做這些完全的伸展操前,應該先完成熱身準備,而且在完成時,還得做收操或緩和運動(cool down)。同時大體上,依照以下的步驟。
a.做一些散步或慢跑來放鬆全身。
b.做一些肌肉收縮,然後甩動四肢,動一動軀幹,讓全身的處於較佳的機動性和較佳的活動範圍。
c.慢慢地、穩定地作伸展,不要以動態伸展。
d.每個靜態伸展動作,至少持續兩分鐘以上,而自主性伸展,則盡可能撐得越久越好,或自己覺得夠了為止。
e.伸展後,使肌肉有壓迫感持續10-20秒,然後放鬆 20-40秒。
f.盡可能伸展整個的身體,就算你只想訓練特定的伸展動作。
g.整個伸展操,包含熱身和緩和運動,不要超過兩小時。
h.緩和運動(cool down)。

2.重量訓練和體能訓練
在整個「增強肌力」的訓練過程中,重量訓練和體能訓練將扮演一個重要的角色。有些攀岩特定的訓練,只要應用得當,很容易可以轉換成攀岩的體力。但重量訓練不適合在一星期內訓練超過兩次,而當我們專注在力量的獲得時,其休息或恢復期,將是其中的關鍵要素。重量訓練是很容易因操作不當,而造成過度訓練,所以在訓練你的最大力量水準時,必須很小心。我們的重量訓練時間表,將分為四個階段,每一階段持續大約一星期,或以二到三個階段進行。這些階段設計可參考如下:
階段一:初期(適應)階段
這階段是設計來讓你逐漸適應重量訓練。每個訓練大約是以你的最大力量之百分之60-80%執行訓練,而且約可反覆6-8次(註六),每個訓練日做三至四回。這階段需持續大約兩個訓練日。
階段二:中程階段
這階段你可以將重量訓練之強度提升至大約80-90%的最大力量,而且最大反覆在3-5次,做6-8回合。這階段需持續約2-3個訓練日。
階段三:純力量階段
在這階段我們將看到所謂的「純力量」(pure power),將以90-100%的肌力,而且反覆約在1-2次,做10-12回合。這階段需持續約2-3個訓練日。
階段四:緩和階段
這階段的訓練將逐漸朝80-90%的最大肌力調降,逐漸加大可反覆的次數,而且回合數將逐漸遞減,就如第二階段一樣。最後此階段仍需持續約2-3個訓練日。

體能動作訓練(conditioning exercises)
在這些訓練階段裡,須設計一些,重量訓練不容易訓練到的,特殊體能訓練動作,同時可以平衡身體各部肌肉發展。其動作須結合鐵片,而且依據肌力的增長,或當可做更多次數時而調整。這些動作同時須依照「重量訓練階段一」的訓練細節操作。其主要是設計用來強化特殊體能的肌肉群,而不是增大那些肌肉群的尺寸。

訓練動作
體能訓練動作:(若連結失效,請再以英文名稱搜尋相關圖片、影片或照片)
1.挺舉。(Military press) http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...taryPress.html
2.仰臥推舉。(Bench press) (參考動作: http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...enchPress.html)
3.水平划船動作。(Horizontal row)
4.二頭捲曲。(Biceps curl)
5.負重單槓。(Weighted pull-up)
6.蹲舉。(squats) (http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...s/BBSquat.html)
7. 手指捲曲。(Finger rolls) http://www.nicros.com/New%20Training...ger-rolls.shtm

體能訓練:
1.槓鈴捲曲。(Reverse Curl) http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...verseCurl.html
2. 彎舉,兩種方法。(Wrist curls, both ways)
http://www.shapefit.com/forearms-exe...ver-bench.html
2.仰臥舉腿(leg lifts)
http://www.dcdoctor.com/pages/rightp..._leglifts.html
3. 腹部捲曲。(Abs crunches)
http://www.shapefit.com/abs-exercise...-crunches.html
http://www.shapefit.com/abs-exercise...h-machine.html
4.側臥提腰(找不到中文名稱及圖示)。(Side lifts)
Sit-Ups: Side Lifts (仰臥起坐:側舉腰)
Lie on left side, resting on elbow, arm is at 90 degrees, knees are 45 degrees
側躺著身,依靠手肘,上半身離地,手臂與身體呈90度,膝蓋微彎呈45度。
Lift hips off ground until body is in a straight line
提舉髖部(腰部),讓身體呈一直線。
Slowly return to start position
慢慢回復開始的動作。
Switch sides and perform lifts
換邊,做同樣的動作。

在執行這些訓練時,請謹記這些訓練動作及方法是很重要的。再次提醒,當你們做伸展時,如果你們的動作不正確,將很可能使自己受傷。如果動作和方法都正確,在訓練結束時,你們全都會變成精力旺盛的人。

抱石和指力板
在未來幾週裡,抱石是最關鍵性且重要的訓練重點。畢竟,我們想要增進我們的攀登能力,不是嗎? 有什麼方法可以比實際攀岩更有用呢! 重量訓練、伸展操和其它運動訓練? 這些不但不能取代實際在岩壁上或人工攀岩場的技巧訓練,而且沒什麼樂趣! 任何一個厲害的攀岩者都可能告訴你,沒有更好的方法比抱石更能讓你獲得力量。因此若我們想獲得「純力量」,我們得集中在一到六個動作的路線。如果想真的測試你的力量,你應該找到一些路線,你必須花好一段時間才能爬完的路線,例如,我之前爬過最難的路線,我大約在長達兩年多裡,嘗試了一百次! 我無法很準確地告訴你該怎麼做,但你可以找到某些路線,可以從中發覺你的缺點的。你可能可以找到有某些路線,剛開始爬時也許需要協助,慢慢地你逐漸可以由自己完成。也可以試著設計幾條彆扭、不自然的路線。爬彆扭的路線,可以訓練你不經思索的爬。你當然想要讓自己學會如何有效率的爬,而不是強迫你自己去爬不自然的路線。試著去找一條有很多不同型態的把手點(如open的饅頭點、薄片的摳點、孔狀口袋點、倒拉點、側拉點等等),這樣就能在各方面強化你的手指。再找一些路線,要求特別的、不尋常的動作,這樣可以訓練自己運用各種技巧。包含熱身、和這些抱石訓練,不要持續超過四至五個小時,甚至有品質的訓練,只要一個小時就夠了。千萬別過度訓練,同時起碼休息 48至72個小時。

請記住,小心點!!抱石訓練是很容易造成運動傷害的,在嘗試你的「極限能力路線」前,一定要充分熱身。如果你本身有受傷,而且是攀岩時會用到的特定位置,請在嘗試極限路線時,應儘量避免去使用,而熱身時,則要特別去動一動,活動開來。
接著未來的幾天,我將收集你們的訓練記綠,進而讓我們轉換至「爆發耐力」的訓練階段。到時候,你們將會有更多訓練的功課要去做!!祝大家好運。然後,如果各位有什麼問題,別猶豫,儘管打電話或e-mail問我。謝謝,Mike。
Mike Beck

釋註:
1.on-sight:香港翻譯成「即場攀登」,我個人覺得蠻貼切的,所以引用。而當形容詞時,我將它略稱「即攀」。
2. power-endurance:「爆發耐力」可以在網路上找到這樣的翻譯。
3.Resistance training:「阻抗訓練」,Resistance 在電子學裡將它翻譯成「阻抗」,因此我沿用,覺得可以顧名思義,不難理解。
4.very personal:非常個人的。(攀岩講究專注、內化的自我感受與對話),括號內則是根據以往介紹攀岩的論點,和我個人的看法。因為幼兒發展,會經由自言自語階段,逐漸發展為內化的自我對話,就如「心象技巧」一樣,攀岩的過程,你得不斷地告訴自己,下一步該怎麼做。
5.自主性訓練:當時集訓時,已有人將它翻譯成「自主性柔軟度」,就如一個人吊掛在單槓時,能自行張開雙腿成劈腿的能力,是自行以肌肉牽引伸展,不像平常的壓腿,是以重力或其他外力來達到伸展的目的。
6.最大反覆:在重量訓練中,常以調整鐵片重量的方式,來控制特定訓練次數,同時控制訓練之強度,以達到最有效的肌肉刺激。最大反覆6~8次,指的是鐵片的重量,調整至使特定的訓練動作,只能做到6到8次,即無法再多做一次,就是所謂的「最大反覆」。所以每次訓練會因為疲勞,而有第一回合8次,其次7,再者6或5,而等到你可以做到8-8-8時,即可再調整鐵片重量至六次最大反覆的重量了,而其各回合間,休息約一分半。

陳智勇 翻譯及加註,2006

TRAINING PROGRAM

The training program that I am using is based on a designed to utilize the peak of this cycle for optimal performance in the upcoming Asia Cup. The initial goal of this program will be to increase the overall power base of the climber over the first five weeks of the training and gradually work into more power-endurance based training trending towards longer power-endurance training as the time for the competition near. Because competition climbing demands more than just physical fitness, climbers will also be working on other relative skills to enhance their performance and better prepare them for the competition. These include tactical competition skills, on-sight technique, injury prevention and treatment, mental, mental training and insights on better nutrition and resting practices. The program will also help them identify their weakness and strong points, and to work on these respectively.

EQUIPMENT
Besides the normal equipment (shoes, chalk bag, etc..) climbers will need to keep a journal of their training and keep a calendar of the schedule.

PROGRAM
Phase 1
As mentioned above, the first five weeks will consist of power training. With power training, rest and recovery time is crucial. Climbers will be training finger strength (consisting of bouldering and fingerboard training) a maximum of two to three times weekly on top of a bi-weekly weight-lifting program. This will be enhanced by a schedule swimming (probably the best), running, cycling, playing basketball (my personal favorite) or easy climbing. Whatever cross-training exercise you choose, make sure you perform it for at least 20 minutes continually. Any less time than this the exercise ceases to be aerobic. Flexibility training, technique and nutritional advice will also be part of this phase of the training.

Phase 2
The final week of the power training phase the climbers will gradually begin to move into longer power-oriented exercises designed to make the transition into the power-endurance phase of the training program. The last few weeks of November this transition will be completed. This phase of the training will begin the steps towards preparing for the competition. This preparation includes technique training, longer series of movements designed to increase the climbers’ power gains from phase 1, making flexibility gains and improving technique.

Phase 3
The final phase of training will begin around the end of November and last until the date of the competition. This phase will consist of longer power-endurance training routes designed to simulate routes and situations climbers could encounter during the competition. The main emphasis of this phase will be on a type of competition training called Resistance training, developed by the French competition climbers and used extensively by professional competitors around the world. This phase will also focus on more competition-specific techniques to better enhance the climber's ability to perform under pressure in the competition environment. Speed, resting, efficiency and focus will be the dominant factors we will work on during this phase.

NOTE
There are some important things to remember. First, climbing is very personal. I am here to give you guidelines to follow but, without making a very time-consuming and specific analysis of all of the individuals abilities, needs, or time schedules it is very difficult for me to tell you exactly what you need to do (i.e. how much weight you should lift, how much you should rest, etc.. ) Some of this you just have to figure out yourself through analyzing your specific needs. It is very important however that you try to and not enough. Hopefully you will all get something out of this experience and you will see new ways to improve your climbing. I will try my best, I hope you trust me and we can work together.

1. Health
a) vitamin C daily, at least 500 mg., at least double that if you have tendon/joint injuries b) vitamin E regularly (if possible, but not as important as vitamin C) c) protein-based diets on training and recovery days d) injuries: treat with at least twice daily icing, 15-20 minutes per time. Also, short, concentrated does of ibuprofen consisting of 1200-2000mg per day for three-day periods and then none for at least a week can reduce inflammation and swelling drastically.

2. Basic training
a) flexibility training: active and passive stretching exercises b) cross training: aerobic exercise of choice performed 2-3 times weekly c) easy climbing: climbing done well below level of the climber just to keep movement skills d) technique: focus on footwork precision, dynamic movement, body positioning resting as well as tactical skills used in on-sight climbing and competition climbing

3. power training
a) bouldering: 1-5 move problems b) weight: bi-weekly, focusing on maximum power. Heavy weight, low repetitions c) finger board: focus on pure power hangs and pulls, emphasis on single-arm exercises 4. Power endurance
a) bouldering: longer circuits designed to improve the climbers ability to complete longer series of difficult moves b) integration of resistance training to further improve climbers ability to climb for longer periods of time at their limit

CYCLES OF TRAINING
TRAINING GUIDELINES

1. STRETCHING
Moderate stretching should done always before and after a climbing or weight lifting workout. This should include muscle flexing, rotating and easy stretches. A short walk or run is also advised before workouts to get the blood circulating. For flexibility gains, full stretching workouts should be done at least 2 but no more than 4 time weekly depending on your schedule and motivation. Full stretching regiments should always begin with a warm-up and end with a cool-down, and should roughly follow these steps:
1. short walk or run to loosen up
2. flexing muscles and swinging limbs and torso for mobility and range of motion 3
. slow, steady stretching without bouncing
4. each passive stretch should executed for at least 2 minutes, active stretchs can be held as long as possible or desirable
5. contract the muscle for 10-20 seconds, then relax for 20-40 seconds
6. stretch the entire body even if you desire to work on a particular type of flexibility
7. do not exceed 2 hours of stretching per session, including warm up and cool down
8. cool down The following pages show some climbing-specific stretches but feel free to work into you regiment any stretches you choose or want to work on. Probably the most important things to stretch for climbing are your hands and fingers. These should be thoroughly stretched before any climbing activity. Remember, stretch should not be painful and if it is chances are you are doing more harm than good. Good flexibility doesn't come easy, so be patient and take it easy.

STRETCHES 2. WEIGHTS AND CONDITIONING EXERCISES

During the power phase of our training weight lifting and body conditioning exercises will play an important role in overall strength gains. These are some climbing specific exercises that will easily transfer over to climbing strengths if performed properly. Weights shouldn't be done more that twice weekly, as we will be concentrating on power in which rest and recovery time is a key component. Weight training is easily subjected to over training, so be very careful to work up to your maximum power level. Our weight schedule will be in four phases, each one lasting roughly a week, or two to three sessions, the phases go like this:

Phase 1: Warm-up phase
This phase is designed to get you accustomed to lifting. Each exercise should be performed with roughly 60-80% of your capability and with repetitions of 6-8 in sets of 3-4. This phase should last about 2 sessions.

Phase 2: Mid-Range phase
In this phase you will increase you lifting to roughly 80-90% of capability and do repetitions of 3-5 in sets of 6-8. This phase will last about 2-3 sessions. Phase

3: Pure Power Phase
In this phase we will be seeing what our pure power is. We will be doing lifts of roughly 90-100% of capability in repetitions of 1-2 and sets of 10-12. This phase will last about 2-3 sessions.

Phase 4: Warm Down Phase
This phase will consist of us dropping our level back down to 80-90% of capability and increasing the amount of repetitions and decreasing the sets, This final stage will also last about 2-3 sessions. CONDITIONING EXERCISES
Phased in with these power lifts will be some general conditioning exercises designed to balance the body and strengthen parts of it that are not easily strengthened by weights. These exercises will be done in conjunction with the weights and will only change as your body gets stronger and is able to handle more. The exercises that require weights should be done in accordance with the guidelines for lifting detailed in Phase 1 of the lifting cycle. These are mainly designed to strength antagonistic muscle groups, not to increase the size of these groups.

THE EXERCISES
EXERCISES FOR POWER
1. Military press 2. Bench press 3. Horizontal row 4. Biceps curl 5. Weighted pull-up 6. Squats 7. Finger rolls CONDITIONING EXERCISES
1. Reverse curls 2. Wrist curls, both ways 3. Leg lifts 4. Ab crunches 5. Side lifts Remember that form is crucial while performing these exercises. Again, as with stretching, if you are doing things improperly you will surely injure yourself. If done properly, you are sure to all be powerhouses at the end of this training cycle!

BOULDERING AND FINGERBOARD
bouldering is the most crucial and important part of our training in the upcoming weeks. After all, we are trying to improve at climbing aren't we? What better way to do that than! Weights, stretching and other helpful exercises are no substitute for actually getting on the rock or indoor wall and practicing your skills. they're not nearly as fun either! Any great climber will tell you there is no better way to improve your power than bouldering. Since we are trying to make gains in our pure power, we will be concentrating on problems in between 1-6 moves. In order to really test your power, you should find some problems that take you a few sessions to do. For example, the most difficult problem I have ever done took me roughly 100 tries spread out over 2 years! I can't tell you exactly what to do, but try to find problems that exploit your weaknesses. You might find some problems that you need help on the moves at first, and slowly are able to do them on your own. Try to make problems that aren't contrived. Climbing contrived problems teaches you to climb stupidly and thoughtlessly. You want to teach your body to look for the most efficient way to climb not force it to climb in an unnatural way. Try to find problems with a variety of grips (i.e. slopers, crimps, pockets, underclings, sidepulls, gastones, etc.. ) This will strengthen your fingers every way. Try to find problems with unusual body positions. This will teach you how to climb using many different techniques. Including warming up, these bouldering sessions shouldn't last more than 4-5 hours and even a good hour can sometimes be enough. Don't overdo it and take at least 48-72 hours to recovery. Remember, be careful!! It is very easy to get injured bouldering. Warm up well before trying something at your limit. If you have an injury, which hurts, in a particular position, avoid that position when you are at your limit and use that position when you are warming up.

FINGERBOARD
A fingerboard is one of the best ways to train pure power. When we training on a fingerboard, try to either do hangs or pull-ups with weight, or one-handed. Your hangs shouldn't last more that 3-6 seconds and you shouldn't be able to do more that 1-4 pull ups at one time. These can be done in sets of about 8-12. If you are exceeding this, you are no longer training power. Try to use a variety of grips and use holds that equally distribute the amount of force to all of your fingers. If you are doing pull-ups, go up quickly and down slowly and go through the full range of motion. If these exercises are too difficult for you, have a friend help you, use a chair to push off of or use bungee cords. Stepping on a scale with one foot can also tell you how much help you need and help you measure your improvements. Fingerboard workouts should be implemented into your bouldering days or substitute them altogether. At time goes on I will be getting together some notes to move us into the power endurance phase of the training. Until then, this should keep you busy for the next few weeks!! Good luck, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to call me or drop me an email. I can best be reached at home either before 9:00 in the morning or after 7:00 in the evening. I hope you can read this! Thanks, Mike

Mike Beck
Email: amier@gcn.net.tw Phone: (02)
__________________
Defeat is not defeat unless accepted as a reality in your own mind.
Bruce Lee


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此文章於 2012-09-23 22:18 被 A-YUNG 編輯. 原因: 補漏、錯字
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