[DOC]

少年青少年的攀岩訓練
這是Eric J. Hörst 在他攀岩訓練網站上的文章。請大家參考一下。
http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/
http://www.nicros.com/training/

Youth Training for Climbing – Part 1

This is the first in a two-part series on age-appropriate training for youth climbers. The overriding goal of a youth training program must be skill and cognitive development, a modest amount of strength training to develop muscle balance and control, AND having fun! Here are ten guidelines for an effective youth training.
青少年攀岩訓練計畫的首要目標最重要的是技巧和認知發展，適度而不過量的力量訓練以促進肌肉平衡發展及良好的控制(不要揠苗助長)。最重要的是玩得快樂，讓他們從中得到樂趣，並持續接觸。以下是十個原則。
註: 認知發展(cognitive development): 有興趣的人，可上網收搜尋”認知發展+皮亞傑”。

•Most improvement before age 12 comes from motor learning, so climbing 2 or 3 days per week is the most important form of “training for climbing”.
•12歲之前的進步大部分來自於動作學習，所以每個星期爬 2-3天就是最重要的訓練方式。

•Research has identified ages 6 to 16 as the period of accelerated improvement in motor abilities. This period of heightened neurodevelopment should be used to learn a wide range of sports skills. Avoid single-sport specialization during this period; encourage the youth climber to engage in at least one other sporting activity.
•研究顯示運動能力的大幅發展提升是在 6-16歲之間。在這段神經系統快速發育的時期，應廣泛的學習各種運動技巧。在這時期應避免侷限於單一項運動，鼓勵他們參加其他項運動。

•Coaching of proper technique is critical to wire efficient movement skills that will last a lifetime. Find an experienced youth climbing coach!
•教導選手學習適當良好的攀爬技巧，對於發展有效率(省力)的移動技巧而言是最重要的，而且終生受用。 所以請找一位有經驗的青少年選手教練。

•Broaden skill set with regular exposure to a wide range of terrain and techniques. Expose the youth climber to outdoor climbing!
•藉由規律地接觸多種不同地形及技巧，以加寬攀爬技巧的廣度、多樣性。帶他們到天然岩場去爬！

•Favor roped climbing over bouldering (60/40). A singular focus on intense bouldering often leads to injury, especially during the adolescent growth spurt (age 11 – 14 in girls, and 12 – 16 in boys).
•多爬長路線而不只是抱石(比率約是長路線60%，抱石40%)，單只爬高強度的抱石常常導致受傷，尤其在成長高峰期(身高快速拔高，女生11-14歲之間，男生12-16歲)更要謹慎。
註: 所以UIAA不辦 少年青少年的抱石賽。

• Prior to the adolescent growth spurt most apparent gains in strength come from motor learning, not hypertrophy. Initial strength training (before age 10) should focus on body weight exercises and “light” weight training for muscle balance, control, and coordination.
•在成長高峰期之前，大部分明顯的力量增加來自於動作學習，而非肌肉肥大。10歲之前的力量訓練應著重只以自身體重運動，和輕量重量訓練以使肌肉平衡、控制、協調。

•While a fit youth climber can dabble with some forms of climbing-specific conditioning, high-stress and excessive strength/power training is not appropriate and can lead to injury. Gradually introduce a moderate amount of climbing-specific training during the pubescent growth spurt (age 11 – 16). Examples: Fingerboard pull-ups, Campus “Laddering”, Core Exercises.
•雖然青少年可承受某些攀岩訓練，但是高強度、過度的力量/爆發力訓練並不適當，並會導致受傷。在成長高峰期(女生11-14歲，男生12-16歲)，要"逐步"加進中等份量的力量/爆發力訓練，例如在指力板上做引體向上(拉單槓)，在指力條梯上做動態攀登，核心力量訓練。

•Avoid highly dynamic and excessive high-intensity exercises. Tendons and growth plates are at high risk of injury as body weight rapidly increases during the growth spurt. (More on this next month in Part #2.)
•避免極度動態攀登、過度高強度攀登。在成長高峰期體重會快速增加，這對生長板(由軟骨構成)和肌腱造成負擔(它們的強度增加的速度 趕不上體重增加的速度)，因此極容易受傷斷裂。

•Engage in daily flexibility training (dynamic stretching as a warm-up before climbing and a modest amount of static stretching during the cool-down period or before bedtime). Stretching is especially beneficial during the growth spurt period.
•每天都要做柔軟度訓練 (攀登前可用動態拉筋當作暖身，攀登結束後或睡覺前可用中等份量的靜態拉筋當作收操)。在成長高峰期拉筋對身體尤其有益。


Youth Training for Climbing – Part 2

As youth climbers enter the pubescent growth spurt, their training must be monitored and adjusted to prevent injuries. Here are a few key guidelines for this important period.
當青少年選手進入青春期成長高峰期時(女生11-14歲，男生12-16歲)，他們的訓練一定要受到監督和調整，以避免受傷。以下是這個重要時期的一些重點原則。

•Do not try to train like the “Pros” or the age 17+ climbers at your gym–youth climbers are NOT “little adults!” Stop climbing at the first sign of finger or joint pain, and take a week or two off.
•不要驅策青少年選手要像那些職業級的成人選手(17歲以上)一樣的訓練---青少年並不是“小大人”。當手指或關節一有疼痛，要立即停止攀登並休息1到2周。

• Avoid a singular focus on intense bouldering, which is more likely to lead to injury during the adolescent growth spurt (age 11 – 14 in girls, and 12 – 16 in boys). Expose the youth climber to outdoor climbing to broaden their skill set.
•在成長高峰期(身高快速拔高，女生11-14歲之間，男生12-16歲) 要避免單只爬高強度的抱石(容易導致受傷)。帶他們到天然岩場，藉由接觸多種不同地形，以加寬攀爬技巧的廣度。

•Do only a limited amount of climbing-specific training, but do LESS than you think is necessary! Don’t overtrain in an attempt to compensate for the tendency to “outgrow your strength” during the peak of the growth spurt (doing so may lead to injury).
•只做少量(比你認為所需的更少) 的攀岩專屬訓練。不要以過度訓練來試圖彌補成長最高峰時期身高體重快速增加，但力量卻跟不上的缺口。(這樣作有可能受傷)。 (peak of growth spurt: 在青春期間會有1,2年身高突然拔高。例如一個暑假就長高10公分。此時生長板(由軟骨構成)比較脆弱，這段時期訓練要小心)
註: 身體發育的順序是: 在青春期中期是成長最高峰時期，身高體重快速增加(但肌肉增加不多)，然後青春期末期肌肉(力量)受到睪固酮刺激才明顯發育肥大。所以會有 “outgrow your strength” during the peak of the growth spurt: 成長最高峰時期身高體重快速增加，但力量卻跟不上的缺口出現。

•Avoid highly dynamic and excessive high-intensity exercises. Tendons and growth plates are at high risk of injury as bodyweight rapidly increases during the growth spurt.
• 避免極度動態攀登、過度高強度攀登。在成長高峰期體重會快速增加，這對生長板(由軟骨構成)和肌腱造成負擔(它們的強度增加的速度，趕不上體重增加的速度)，因此極容易受傷。

•Sleep and “eats” are important! Eat a big meal right after your workout and get 9 to 10 hours sleep on nights after climbing. Youth climbers should never “diet”; instead focus on eating a clean diet with adequate protein, carbohydrate, and unsaturated fats (fat is a primary muscle fuel for climbers age <12). Consider consuming supplemental protein (whey).
•睡眠和飲食非常重要。在攀爬後要馬上大吃一頓，並在晚上好好睡上8-9 個小時。青少年選手絕不要節食，應該要把重點放在食用一頓清淡飲食，裡面要有足夠的蛋白質、碳水化合物、不飽和脂肪(脂肪是12歲以下小朋友 肌肉的主要能量來源)。要考慮額外補充蛋白質(乳清蛋白)。

•Engage in daily flexibility training (dynamic stretching as a warm-up before climbing and a modest amount of static stretching during the cool-down period or before bedtime). Stretching is especially beneficial during the growth spurt period.
•每天都要做柔軟度訓練 (攀登前可用動態拉筋當作暖身，攀登結束後或睡覺前可用中等份量的靜態拉筋當作收操)。在成長高峰期拉筋對身體尤其有益。

• Have a climbing “off-season.” (Chris Sharma does!) Develop interest and skills in a second sport. It’s good for your mind, body, and your climbing!
•要有停止攀岩的休養期(Chris Sharma 就是這樣!)。培養對其他運動的興趣和技巧。這對你的心靈 身體 攀岩生涯都有益。
________________________________________
Copyright 2011 Eric J. Hörst. All rights reserved.